Southern Hospitality

            Blackwater Cafe owner Tom Gordon is so committed to customer service he’s been known to pursue patrons into the parking lot to garner their feedback.

            Customers are greeted – often by first name – on the way in, thanked on the way out and even walked to their cars under cover of umbrella if it’s raining.

            So it’s not surprising the Blackwater won the gold award for customer service in the Smith Mountain Laker’s 2010 Best of SML Awards. It’s the second time the restaurant has received the honor, which is voted on by readers.

            One of the lake’s most established restaurants, the Blackwater won eight other awards, including the top prize for Best Burger, Best Breakfast, Best Desserts, Best Seafood and Best Wine Selection.

            “Of all the awards, Best Customer Service is the one I cherish most,” said Gordon, who, along with five members of his immediate family, runs the restaurant. “It’s not even a restaurant category. That’s what got us excited the most, that people recognize what we do.”

            Gordon bought the Blackwater Cafe on Scruggs Road in 2005 and has spent the past four-plus years fine-tuning its staff, menu, atmosphere and special events.

            Executive Chef Mark Crim, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and multiple award-winner in the Laker’s Best Chef category, joined the team in 2007. Along with sous chef Cara McClaine, chef Geran Legue and kitchen assistant Nate Flora, Crim creates distinctive meals filled with fresh, flavorful ingredients. Even desserts, which change weekly, are made in-house.

            “They don’t take shortcuts,” Gordon said of his staff. “They do things the way they’re supposed to be done. They have a strong passion for how food comes out of the kitchen, and that makes everyone else’s job easier.”

            The Blackwater’s menu is not extensive, which Gordon said “allows us to always put our best foot forward.” Five appetizers range from $4.99 to $8.99. Caesar and mixed-green salads are available and diners can add grilled chicken or shrimp to make either salad an entree.

            While the half-pound burger ($9.99), 6-ounce grilled beef filet ($24.99) and shrimp and grits ($15.99) are the most popular menu items, Gordon said the dish patrons comment on most often is the braised beef pot roast ($14.99).

            “What makes it so good is it has a Bordelaise sauce, which most people aren’t going to make at home because it’s so time-consuming,” Gordon said. “We took it off the menu one summer and had to put it back on because we got so many complaints.”

            What you won’t see much of on the regular menu is seafood.

            “We have seafood all the time, but it’s always specials,” Gordon said. “It has to be fresh, and I’m never certain what [type of fresh seafood] will be available. We just don’t do frozen.”

            The Blackwater features three distinct dining areas. The interior, with its lodge-like decor, is split. A casual bar and grill with big-screen TV occupies one side and a more formal dining room with fireplace the other. Two years ago the owners added a covered outdoor patio, which accommodates 32 people in the warmer months.

            “It’s just a wonderful ambiance,” said SML resident Charlene Maresca, who dines regularly at the Blackwater with her husband, John. “The food is always delicious. We’ve never been disappointed.”

            Lynn Gordon, Tom’s wife and the restaurant’s hostess most evenings, decorates for various seasons and holidays throughout the year. John Gordon, the couple’s son, is the restaurant’s general manager. His wife, Miranda, tends bar and helps out on Sundays. The Gordons’ other children, Michael and Susan, also work at the restaurant when things

get busy.

            In late 2008, Tom Gordon said he and staff members brainstormed ways to increase business during the slower winter months. They came up with the idea of a gourmet wine dinner, an opportunity for Crim to showcase his culinary skills and Gordon to share his passion for wine. The first one took place that December with select wines paired with each of five courses.

            “The presentation, and the way the chef and the wine specialists are able to pair the wine and the food, is just excellent,” said Maresca, who attends the dinners regularly with a group of neighbors. “You learn a little something, and it allows for great conversation.”

            The wine dinners take place the second Tuesday of each month, a night the Blackwater is usually closed. Seating is limited to about 50, which allows the restaurant to retain its cozy atmosphere, Gordon said.

            Reservations for the dinners, which will continue through May and resume in September, are filled quickly. Their success prompted Gordon to speculate about other events that might appeal to lake residents. In June 2009, the Blackwater held its first jazz dinner.

            “We filled up a Thursday night that’s not usually very busy,” said Gordon, who booked Roanoke’s Charlie Perkinson Trio. “We offer our normal menu, which people really seem to enjoy. The jazz dinners sell out as well so we plan to continue them year-round.”

            Gordon said Sunday breakfast/brunch also has been popular. Next up is an “oldies night,” which will feature music from the 1950s and ‘60s. The Gordons own a collection of more than a thousand 45 rpm vinyl records, which can be played on their replica Wurlitzer juke box.

The Blackwater Café is located at 4730 Scruggs Road, Moneta. The restaurant serves dinner Wednesday through Saturday starting at 5 p.m. and Sunday breakfast/brunch from 8 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Starting in May, the Blackwater will be open seven days a week for dinner at 5 p.m and Sunday breakfast/brunch from 8 a.m. until 1:30 p.m. For more information, including complete menus and event schedule, visit theblackwatercafe.com. 540.721.4333