Mountain grandeur

The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, W.Va., was not at the top of Karen Maydian's list of exciting places to visit. But when the SML resident's husband, Darren, was scheduled to visit the resort for a business meeting, she agreed to tag along, uncertain of what to expect.

Stepping through the doors of the sprawling hotel was like "traveling back in time," Maydian said, into a world of exquisite elegance and southern hospitality.

"The Greenbrier has a ton of old, regal charm," she said, noting the resort's myriad of relaxing activities designed to soothe the body and soul.

While her husband busied himself in meetings during the day, Maydian was free to explore the grounds and indulge in the amenities offered by the resort. One evening, the couple enjoyed a multi-course meal in the main dining room, where the evening attire is always formal (jackets required after 7 p.m.). Another night they relaxed at one of the casual dining areas for drinks and a lighter meal.

"Getting dressed up for dinner is even more fun when you have to," said Maydian, the mother of two young children. "We had date night both nights. The food was excellent and the service fantastic."

After dinner, the couple made their way to the Tavern Casino in the basement of Prime 44 West, the resort's premier steakhouse, where they watched and played the table games and slot machines in the intimate casino.

The Greenbrier is scheduled to open a second, larger casino this summer discreetly located beneath the front entrance of the hotel. Simply named The Casino Club, it features a Monte Carlo-style decor of elegance and refinement. Open to overnight guests and sporting club members only, the casino offers free champagne nightly, followed by a toast to all players.

Fun and excitement abound in both casinos, especially around the blackjack table. Roulette, poker, craps and baccarat game tables also are available for play. Guests are encouraged to indulge their luck at one of more than 300 slot machines, which range from traditional reel spinning to the latest in video lottery games.

During the day, Maydian said she discovered the 6,500-acre resort was a playground of unexpected delights. Golf and croquet are popular at the The Greenbrier, which also offers kayaking, horseback rides along mountain trails and hiking for the more adventurous. Bowling, billiards, and indoor and outdoor tennis also are among the entertainment choices.

Maydian said she regretted not having the time to spend in the luxurious spa, her only foray was a quick trip to purchase more of the lotions and gels she had sampled in her room. Anaerobics instructor at the Smith Mountain Lake YMCA, Maydian said she did enjoy the resort's top-of-the-line fitness center.

"They offer yoga classes as well as spin and some others," she said.

One of the most popular things to do at The Greenbrier is to tour its infamous underground bunker.

In the late 1950s, the U.S. government built a bomb shelter to be used by members of Congress in case of nuclear war. Officially referred to as an emergency relocation center, the top-secret facility was constructed discreetly at the same time the West Virginia Wing was added to the hotel. The Greenbrier agreed that, in an international crisis, the entire resort would be used as the emergency location for the government officials. In 1992, a story in The Washington Post exposed the facility and the government decommissioned it shortly thereafter. In 1995, the 112,544-square-foot bunker was opened to the public for tours.

Guests have been coming to the The Greenbrier since 1778 to enjoy its spring of sulphur water, which was reputed to restore health. Still honored in a prominent location, the spring runs under the green dome of the white-columned spring house, the renowned symbol of the Greenbrier for generations. At first, the isolated mountain location challenged visitors, but by the 1830s, a stagecoach route and the later arrival of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway opened up the way to what was to become known as one of the most fashionable social resort towns in the South.

The first large hotel was built in 1858, three stories tall, each with its own promenade of porches to capture the summer breezes and encourage guests to mingle. During the Civil War, the resort was closed with both sides occupying the grounds at different times. The hotel was used as both a military headquarters and a hospital.

The resort reopened after the war and its popularity took off. The railroad bought the property in 1910 and embarked on a three-year expansion that included the addition of The Greenbrier Hotel (the central part of today's hotel), an indoor pool and its first 18-hole golf course. Prominent guests have included President Woodrow Wilson, and Joseph and Rose Kennedy, who honeymooned at the resort.

During World War II, the State Department leased the hotel to inter German, Japanese and Italian diplomatic personnel, later converting it into a 2,000-bed surgical hospital and rehab center. In 1948, The Greenbrier reopened again to the public with professional golfer Sam Snead helping to build the resort's reputation as one of the world's foremost golf destinations. The resort is home to three championship courses and is the only facility to host both the Ryder Cup and Solheim Cup, prominent professional golf tournaments.

Although there is plenty to see and do, Maydian said "the whole atmosphere is very laid back and relaxed.Darren has a yearly convention there, so this will be our first trip of many. I highly recommend a visit there."

For more information, rates or to make a reservation, call 800.453.4858 or visit greenbrier.com.

The Greenbrier is about two hours from Smith Mountain Lake.To get there, take your favorite route to Roanoke and head north on Interstate 81. Take exit 150 B to U.S. 220 north. At Clifton Forge, take Interstate 64 west to the first exit for White Sulphur Springs.