Relaxing and rejuvenating on The Ranch

Photos by Catriona Tudor Erler

Rancho la Puerta's "La Cocina que Canta" (the kitchen that sings) cooking school is surrounded by its organic vegetable garden, which provides much of the produce that is served to the guests.

Drought-tolerant aloes add a splash of color around the swimming pool and echo the hues of the brick paving and the pool house roof.

Catriona Tudor poses with the wind-carved "Skull Rock" on Mount Kuchumaa.

Catriona Tudor Erler is a freelance author and photographer. She has written nine books and contributed to many more. Her photographs appear in her own books as well as with her magazine and newspaper articles. Erler writes the gardening column for Smith Mountain Laker Magazine. She and husband Jim first came to the lake in 1989 when their twin sons were 5 years old. When not at her desk, Catriona enjoys traveling, entertaining friends at the lake, gardening and reading.

Name and address: Catriona Tudor Erler, Huddleston

Where did you go? Rancho la Puerta health spa in Tecate, Mexico

Who went? I went with a girlfriend.

When did you go? May 1 - 8

How long were you there? One week. You can stay for partial weeks at The Ranch, but they encourage weekly or longer stays to get the full benefits of being there. The idea is to take the time to relax and look after yourself as well as to jump-start a healthy lifestyle.

How did you hear about your destination? Rancho la Puerta is just over the border from San Diego, Calif., where I grew up. My mother first took me there for my 50th birthday, and I was hooked. I've managed to go back one other time, and I'm ready to pack my bags and go again.

What was your typical day like? You can be as busy or idle as you like. My typical day began at 6 in the morning with a nature hike. Choices for hikes range from gentle 2-mile long ambles in the valley to 3.5-mile or longer hikes over Mount Kuchumaa, one of four mountains in North America that are sacred to the Indians. There's also a breakfast hike to The Ranch's organic garden. After the walk and a tour of the garden, we were served a delicious breakfast.

Starting at 9 a.m., guests have a choice of about five different classes and activities with a different combination of options offered each hour. Choices include pilates, yoga, tai chi, feldenkrais, tennis clinic, fitball, stretch, aqua exercise, meditation and much more. There are additional exercise classes offered in the afternoon, or you can have a spa treatment, lounge by one of the four swimming pools, take an art class [the week I was there they offered hands-on sculpture, jewelry design, alebrije painting, watercolor, and landscape sketching classes], attend a lecture [there were speakers on a wide range of topics including Mexican history, nutrition, folklore, getting published, dreams and sleep], walk the labyrinth or reflexology path, or hang out with the new friends you've made.

Possibilities for evening entertainment vary each night. I saw a movie, heard a piano concert by five-time Grammy nominee Suzanne Ciani and enjoyed inspiring lectures.

What did you like best about your trip? There is so much to like about Rancho la Puerta. You meet amazing people there. It's a place that touches lives and changes people. One woman I met first came a year ago. She was so heavy she couldn't walk without help. She went twice last year and then went home and lost 50 pounds. She was back again this year, and I met her on an early morning hike. Another woman was there for the 11th time. The first time she came, she became friends with several women who live in different parts of the country. They keep in touch, and meet up at Rancho la Puerta once a year. A man I met had been to Rancho la Puerta several times. He and his wife had also been to Canyon Ranch. He said to me, "Rancho la Puerta is twice as good as Canyon Ranch and half as expensive."

There are a lot of highly successful, and in some cases, well-known people who come to Rancho la Puerta, but the atmosphere remains low-key. It's not about glitz and glamor. I remarked to someone that I liked that it was unpretentious. "Oh yes," he quipped. "If you're pretentious, you get voted off the island."

The grounds are gorgeous with miles of paths that meander through gardens landscaped with aromatic plants such as roses, honeysuckle, lavender, rosemary and sage so you can enjoy little aromatherapy as you walk around. Throughout The Ranch, you'll find beautiful sculptures made by some of the finest Mexican artists. And always a special presence is the rock-strewn sacred Mount Kuchumaa.

I also love the delicious, healthy meals that are beautifully presented. It's wonderful to have all that laid on and to not feel guilty or be tempted to eat poorly. The portions are "spa-" sized, but you can always ask for seconds -- and everyone does!

Best of all, I like how relaxed and healthy I feel by the end of the week. When I got home, people commented on how good I looked; rested, healthy, looking younger.

What, if any, were the negatives? No negatives. From the moment you arrive until the time you leave, you are well looked after by a warm, friendly, accommodating staff. Just one example of how they will go the extra mile for their guests: I needed a battery for my Nikon D200 camera. Someone on staff at Rancho la Puerta makes a daily trip to San Diego to pick up the newspapers; that person took the extra effort to go to a camera store to get the special battery I needed and delivered it to my room. There was no charge for the service.

What advice would you give to lake residents who are considering this destination? Rancho la Puerta has a free shuttle bus from the San Diego airport to The Ranch so it's easy and stress-free to get there. Crossing the border also is safe and easy; the town of Tecate has a wonderful relationship with Rancho la Puerta, which is one of the major local employers, so the border guards and townspeople are very friendly to people coming over the border from the United States. Don't forget to bring your passport!

What attractions should people make sure they visit? If you can take a day before or after your week at Rancho la Puerta, the town of Tecate is worth visiting. Founded in 1892, it maintains the character of a small, quaint Mexican town. Spend some time in the town square at Parque Hildalgo where locals gather to relax and catch up with friends. It's very picturesque with shade trees, a fountain and several statues. Besides relaxing and people watching, you can shop the many vendor tables in the park or enjoy a meal at one of the eateries with tables outside.

Don't miss the Panaderia del Mejor Pan (The Best Bread Store) on Boulevard Benito Juarez, a five-minute walk east of the town square. There you'll find an amazing array of pastries, breads and cakes. Grab a tray, walk down the aisle lined with shelves filled with the delectable treats, and pick whatever entices you. You pay at the end; American dollars are welcome here and throughout the town.