Authentic ambition

As Honorio Zaragoza practiced the art of cooking Mexican cuisine while managing an El Rodeo Mexican Restaurant in Roanoke for 18 years, he became occupied with entrepreneurial inspiration.
    “At most Mexican places around here, everyone has the same menu and nothing has changed since 20 or 30 years ago. I grew up around Mexican cooking and [those restaurants] are not serving the real food you would find in Mexico,” he said.
    What Zaragoza decided was missing was authenticity. Two years ago, he decided to do something about it.
    “While I was working in Roanoke, I wanted to open up a small Mexican restaurant where the cooking was more authentic. I couldn’t do it there very easily, so I decided to come out to Smith Mountain Lake to do it,” he said.
    In 2008, a regular customer at the restaurant Zaragoza managed at the time suggested putting a few miles between his new establishment and the popular spots in Roanoke. One of the owners of Westlake Plaza, Charlie Tooley, a fan of Zaragoza’s service at El Rodeo, was planning a major renovation of the 22-year-old shopping center. He told Zaragoza it was the perfect time to create a new Mexican place in the heart of the Westlake community.
    “He came to me about putting a restaurant here,” said Zaragoza. “He told me he would have to fix the place up, but that was okay with me because then I could fix it up the way I wanted it to be. The renovation took about a year.”
    Though the building was undergoing remodeling, Cancun Mexican Restaurant & Grill began serving the public almost immediately. Only recently did the eatery receive its final touches.
    “We stayed open during the renovation but sometimes people would have to sit here through hammering and construction going on. Thank God we have great customers; they were understanding,” said Zaragoza.
    The owner/chef, along with his wife, brother and other family members, serve their customers with the same commitment to authenticity that first inspired the venture. For Zaragoza, culinary shortcuts used in the restaurants he worked for in the past have no place in the kitchen at Cancun.
    “Here, we marinate our beef in a special marinade. Most places won’t do that because it takes longer and is more expensive. Maybe they used to do it, but they don’t anymore,” he said. “We also have much more variety.”
    Zaragoza’s efforts have earned the restaurant a growing fan base.
    “Mexican food has so much variety and that’s what I wanted to offer here. My customers do notice the difference. One lady, it was her first time here and she had our chili rellenos. She said, ‘You know, I love Mexican food and I love chili rellenos. These are the best chili rellenos I have ever had.’ The reason is because we make chili rellenos the way they make them in Mexico,” he said.
    Zaragoza pays attention to what his customers want and like. As he chats with diners, he hears frequent comments about real Mexican flavor and picks up on the favorite dishes of his regular customers.
    Charlottesville resident Kate O’Brien drops by Cancun while visiting family at the lake. She said she and her husband found the restaurant while scouting a place to watch soccer games on TV.
    “I really like it. We’ve been here a few times, but today we came here for the soccer and free Wi-Fi, and they have been extremely accommodating. The food is good too,” she said.
    With plenty of seating space, boldly painted walls, televisions, free Wi-Fi and authentic-tasting Mexican food, Cancun is exactly what Zaragoza envisioned. Now, he hopes to see more customers like O’Brien finding and frequenting the restaurant.
    “When the remodeling started and they took down the sign for a while, people thought we were closed and that hurt us a little bit. But now we have everything together, the new sign is up and people are coming again and telling others that we’re here. Business is picking up,” he said.  

Want to Go?
Cancun Mexican Restaurant & Grill

Address: 13383 B.T. Washington Hwy., Moneta

Phone: 540.719.2884

Hours: Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.;
Sunday Noon-9:30 p.m.

Try This

Carnitas
Marinated beef served with Mexican rice, beans and guacamole for $9.59.

Fish Enchiladas
White fish wrapped in soft tortillas, covered in creamy white cheese sauce and served with rice for $9.99.

Mango or Lime Margarita
Degollado 100-percent Agave Tequila with rum powder mix and mango or lime flavoring. Frozen or on the rocks for $7.79.